Unagi with Wine

Kabayaki Unagi

Before I spent time living in Japan, my gustatory introductions to eel bordered on phobia-inducing.  As a child I would go fishing each summer on Moosehead Lake in Maine with my grandfather.  At the end of each fond day of fishing for trout and bass, my grandfather would throw a couple of baited lines out and secure the rods to our small pier in the hope of catching some slithery night-feeders.  Occasionally in the mornings there would be something on the end of those lines and I’d watch in horror as he reeled in a slimy snake-like creature that would writhe and wrap around his forearm as he struggled to release it from the hook.  There was no way I was putting that into my mouth.

Then in the course of my many vocations as a student in London I worked a market stall selling jewellery, right next to a stall that sold jellied eel.  Plenty of the locally-reared stall holders would rave about these eels, snacking on a small bowl between their morning bacon butty and lunchtime jacket potato.  I gave it a shot.  A good many Brits that will get riled at this suggestion, but jellied eel tastes like something a swamp creature sneezed-up.

So in retrospect, it’s probably better that I didn’t know what the word unagi meant before my initial taste.  Obliviously tucking into my first boxed unagi lunch (unaju: grilled eel on a bed of rice) there was absolutely no reason that I would have made the association between such a flavoursome delicacy and that monster of my food nightmares.  I was hooked.

Unagi is a type of freshwater eel native to Japan.  More precisely, unagi commonly refers to Anguilla japonica, a species that naturally begins its life in the saltwater then migrates to Japan’s lakes and rivers.  Its popularity as a delicacy has grown since around the 17th century and today it is extensively cultivated in Japan as a freshwater fish.  The tastiest eels are however said to be caught wild, ideally achieving 30-50 cm in length.   

Unagi is consumed particularly in the hot summer months because it is considered to be energy-giving.  It’s packed with nutrients such as high levels of calcium, protein and vitamins A and E, though it is also a relatively fatty fish and therefore can be calorific.  In the peak of Japan’s summer heat falls unagi day(s) or “doyo no ushinohi”, which is marked by the ox/cow day(s) in the midsummer between mid-July and early August.  In summer 2009 there are two doya no ushinohi – 19th and 31st July.

Most of Japan’s finest restaurants will offer a small serving of unagi as a course within a menu.  But if you really want an unagi fix, there are many small, specialist unagiya (unagi restaurants and vendors) in Japan.  These are usually where you can find the very best unagi in terms of fresh flavour and tenderness. 

Unagi is a delicacy that I now seek out at every opportunity during my summer visits to Japan.  Yet one of my greatest disappointments with this cuisine is that restaurants specializing in unagi seldom serve wine.  Granted, many of these are small, simple hole-in-the-wall vendors but the fact remains that for all the unagi that is consumed in Japan each summer, most eel lovers are unaware that this fantastically wine-friendly dish.  For an irrepressible wine obsessive like me, the very nature of this fish cries out for the acidity and moderate alcohol of wine to cut through the oily richness.  So during my visit to Japan in early July 2009, I set out on a quest to prove that wine makes an ideal accompaniment to this most delicious of summer eats.

The unagi for my taste challenge came from a small, highly regarded vendor, Kanda Kikukawa.  The queue to procure a prized box from this place is never less than twenty people deep, but worth the wait.  This was fine eel indeed, very fresh, and exceedingly tender thanks largely to a steaming process prior to the final grilling, a procedure commonly practiced by top unagiya in and around Tokyo, though omitted in western areas around Kansai.

There are two means of preparing unagi – kabayaki and shirayaki.  The most commonly consumed manner is kabayaki.  This is a kind of yakimono in which the fish is opened, deboned and skewered before being covered with a rich, sweet glaze and grilled.  The kabayaki glaze composed mainly of soy sauce, mirin (sweet rice wine) and sugar, though there exist variations amongst restaurants and many have their own “secret recipes”.  This style of unagi is served with a pouring sauce of the same nature that is used to moisten the fish and flavour the rice.  Each of the key ingredients of the kabayaki significantly alters the flavour profile of the fish.

For purists, unagi can also be prepared without the basting sauce.  This is known as shirayaki or “white” grilled, because the fish remains white as opposed to being stained a deep brown from the glaze.  The flesh of the shirayaki has a delicate flavour and though some richness is inherent in the pale meat, most of it comes from the slightly crisp, oily skin.  The smoke from the burning oil of the fish adds to its distinctive flavour and indeed the grilling process can impart a wonderful smoky complexity, depending on if gas burners or charcoal is used.  Even the type of charcoal can have an impact.

While I had my own ideas about possible matches, I thought it might be more fun to ask a few Japanese wine importers to send me lists of their wine suggestions to go with unagi.  I then narrowed these lists down to a number of suggested style categories before ordering-in the final tasting samples.  Only a very few of the wines suggested by Japanese importers to pair with unagi were whites and these were all dry.  I sampled two - a Verdejo from Rueda and a southern French Chardonnay.  Both came off as overly tart and lost to the stronger flavours of both sorts of eels.  A couple of rose Cavas were also suggested, one semi-secco, but neither did the unagi any favours nor vice versa.  The overwhelming majority of wine suggestions were red and here I tend to agree with the mind-set of the importers.  The flavours, richness and meaty texture of this fish almost command a red wine.

Most of the red wine suggestions were old world wines, Spanish and French predominately.  These tended to be earthy, softly tannined styles such as Spanish Tempranillo, Garnacha / Grenache from Spain or the Rhone and Burgundian Pinot Noir.  But a few importers suggested the bigger, bolder flavours of New World classics such as Napa Valley Merlot and Chilean Cabernet.  And I’m glad they did – these more intense, fruit-forward styles turned out to be ideal matches for kabayaki unagi.  Softer, earthier wine styles seemed lean and austere with the kabayaki, their nuances overpowered by the unagi’s sweet richness.  Though they hadn’t been suggested, during this tasting session I felt compelled to sample a couple of Barossa Valley Grenache based wines, Trevor Jones’ Boots Grenache, Merlot, Cabernet 2006 and Torbreck’s Juveniles 2007, which were both absolute winners with kabayaki.

The ultimate shirayaki unagi wine experience was predictably very different.  With the pure, unglazed grilled eel I found most of the Burgundian Pinots to prove very successful.  Even the delicate complexities of the higher quality red Burgundies could be manifested with this simply prepared version of unagi.

As a final note, I’ll mention that my past experience of enjoying wine with unagi has demonstrated that a medium to full bodied Riesling or Pinot Gris containing a bit of residual sugar, such as many New Zealand aromatic wines, can prove a hit with kabayaki unagi.  Fuller bodied, fruity NZ Pinots are also compatible with this style of eel.

Unagi Wine Pairing Summary

Kabayaki Unagi – This grilled eel with sweetened soy and mirin based glaze comes with a similarly flavoured sauce that can be poured on it.  It is best paired with New World wines, esp. Barossa Grenaches and Grenache Blends, Chilean Cabernets and Napa Merlots.  Also good with New Zealand Riesling, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir.

Shirayaki Unagi (white grilled) – A non-marinated style for purists.  The flesh and skin are still richly flavoured but the dish is without the sweetness and strong soy flavours of the kabayaki.  An ideal match is red Burgundy but other delicately flavoured, soft tannined reds work well too.

Restaurant Details:

Kanda Kikukawa,
1-24-2 Kanda-Sudacho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo
Tel: (03) 3251-7925 / 03-3251-1506

Tasting Notes for Wines Suggested by Importers to Pair with Unagi

Oro de Castilla Verdejo 2008
Bodega Hermanos del Villar, S.L., Rueda, Spain
82 points
Imported in Japan by Mottox Inc.
Pure spiced pears and peaches on the nose.  Dry, medium body with medium+ acidity.  Medium finish.  Tasted July 2009.

IIIB & Auromon Blanc 2007
Jean-Claude Mas, Languedoc-Roussillon, France
87 points
Imported in Japan by Mottox Inc.
A waft of cedar with ripe apple and musk melon fruit.  Medium to high acid, medium to full body.  Medium to long finish.  Tasted July 2009.

Freixenet Semi Secco Rose Cava NV
Cava, Spain
79 points
Imported in Japan by SUNTORY WINE INTERNATIONAL LTD
Pale pink colour.  Simple strawberry and yeast aromas on the nose.  Palate has a fair bit of sweetness, medium to high acidity and large bubbles.  Short finish.  Tasted July 2009.

Clasic de Vallformosa Cava Brut Rose 2005
Masia Vallformosa, S.A., Cava, Spain
81 points
Imported in Japan by AGRI Co.,LTD
Warm strawberries with an earthy, dusty undercurrent.  Medium to high acid, medium sized bubbles, lacking slightly in flavour intensity.  Medium, simple finish.  Tasted July 2009.

Duckhorn Merlot Napa Valley 2006
Napa Valley, California
89 points
Imported in Japan by Nakagawa Wine Co., Ltd.
Deep garnet-purple colour.  Warm plum and blackberry aromas on the nose with a touch of dark chocolate, cloves and vanilla.  Full body, medium to high acid and lots of blackberry and spice flavour.  Soft to medium level of velvety tannins.  Long finish going a bit earthy.  Tasted July 2009.

Pine Ridge Crimson Creek Merlot 2005
Napa Valley, California
87 points
Imported in Japan by Nakagawa Wine Co., Ltd.
Merlot, CS and CF blend.  Deep garnet colour.  Earthy, meaty fruit with a core of stewed plums and a waft of capsicum.  Medium to full body, medium to high acid.  Good concentration of fruit with medium+ level of slightly astringent tannins.  Long finish.  Tasted July 2009.

Gordon Brothers Merlot Estate 2007
Gordon Brothers Family Vineyards, Columbia Valley, Washington State, USA
88 points
Imported in Japan by Nakagawa Wine Co., Ltd.
Medium to deep garnet-purple.  Slightly reduced, rubbery character mutes the blackberry and warm plum aromas.  Touch of vanilla on the nose.  Medium+ body with medium to high acidity.  Medium+ level of fine grained tannins.  Great concentration of fruit and a long spicy finish.  Tasted July 2009.

Copertino Riserva 2005
Rampoldi, Botter Carlo, Copertino DOC, Italy
84 points
Imported in Japan by ROYAL OF JAPAN, LTD.
80% Negromaro, 20% Malvasia Nero.  Medium garnet.  Dark cherry and black pepper on the nose.  A little hollow and simple on the palate.  Medium+ acid, medium level of rounded tannins.  Medium+, savoury finish.  Tasted July 2009.

Volorosso Sicilia Nero d'Avola/Shiraz 2007
Caviro, Sicilia, Italy
82 points
Imported in Japan by SUNTORY WINE INTERNATIONAL LTD
Dusty, warm cherry and raspberry aromas with a hint of wet leaves.  Medium body with medium+ acidity and a medium level of chewy tannins.  Medium finish.  Tasted July 2009.

Pescaja Barbera d’Asti “Soliter” 2007
Asti, Italy
87 points
Imported in Japan by AGRI Co.,LTD
Deep garnet-purple colour.  Intense, ripe cherry and heightened berry aromas.  Full body, very fruity with medium to high acidity providing freshness.  Medium level of silky tannins.  Long finish. Tasted July 2009.
 
Taurosso Primitivo 2006
Salento IGT, Italy
79 points
Imported in Japan by AGRI Co.,LTD
Pale to medium garnet colour.  Earthy / meaty nose, a little sweaty, with a core of raisin and dried cherry fruit.  Whiff of VA.  Medium body and medium to high acidity.  Soft to medium level of tannins.  Medium finish.  Tasted July 2009.

San Valentin Garnacha 2007
Torres, Catalonia, Spain
88 points
Imported in Japan by SUNTORY WINE INTERNATIONAL LTD
Medium garnet-purple colour.  Warm raspberry, pepper, tobacco leaf and game on the nose.  Medium body, medium+ acid and medium level of fine tannins.  Long finish.  Tasted July 2009.

Tempo Crianza 2004
Artiga Fustel, Campo de Borja DO, Spain
85 points
Imported in Japan by Mottox Inc.
Medium garnet colour.  Warm cherry, raspberry pie and a touch of sultanas on the nose.  Medium to high acid, low level of soft tannins and decent concentration.  Medium to long finish.  Tasted July 2009.

Nekeas Tempranillo/Merlot 2006
Bodegas y Vinedos Nekeas, Navarra, Spain
86 points
Imported in Japan by Cordon Vert Co., Ltd.
Medium garnet.  Warm plums, cinnamon and cloves on the nose plus a hint of vanilla.  Medium to high acid, low level of fine grained tannins.  Medium to long finish.  Tasted July 2009.

Nekeas Crianza Tempranillo/Cabernet Sauvignon 2005
Bodegas y Vinedos Nekeas, Navarra, Spain
87 points
Imported in Japan by Cordon Vert Co., Ltd.
Medium to deep garnet.  Earthy character with notes of loam, moss and tobacco over warm raspberry and cassis fruit.  Medium body with medium to high acid and a medium+ level of fine tannins.  Long finish.  Tasted July 2009.

Perseus Joven 2007
Viñedos Ruiz Jimenez, Rioja, Spain
84 points
Imported in Japan by DHC Corporation
Deep garnet-purple colour.  Aromas of warm raspberry, dust, white pepper and tar.  Medium+ acid and a medium level of chewy tannins.  Medium body.   Medium finish.  Tasted July 2009.

Equis 2006
Bodegas Mainetes, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla, Spain
84 points
Imported in Japan by Valorjapan Co.,Ltd
Deep garnet-purple colour.  Warm blackberry and blueberry aromas with a touch of vanilla.  Medium+ acid and medium level of slightly astringent tannins.  A little hollow.  Medium finish.  Tasted July 2009.

Vina Heredad Tinto Reserva 2003
Segura Viudas, Penedes, Spain
87 points
Imported in Japan by RYOSHOKU LIQUOR CO. LTD.
Medium+ garnet colour.  Earthy, gamey nose with warm cherry and dried plum fruit aromas.  Medium to high acidity and a medium level of tannins.  Medium body.  Medium to long finish.  Tasted July 2009.

Finca VilaDelloPs Crianza 2005
Penedes, Spain
88 points
Imported in Japan by Sensho Co.,Ltd.
Medium garnet colour.  Macerated blackberries and kirsch aromas with some cinnamon and cardamom.  Medium+ acid and medium level of silky tannins.  Medium+ body.  Long finish.  Tasted July 2009.

Adobe Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
Emiliana, Central valley, Chile
86 points
Imported in Japan by SUNTORY WINE INTERNATIONAL LTD
Deep garnet-purple colour.  Intensely fruity nose of blackcurrant cordial and a whiff of tomato leaf.  The palate is very pure and fruity with medium to high acidity and a medium+ level of fine grained tannins.  Long finish.  Tasted July 2009.

Santa Carolina Cabernet Sauvignon Barrica Selection 2007
Maipo Valley, Chile
88 points
Imported in Japan by SUNTORY WINE INTERNATIONAL LTD
Deep garnet purple.  Warm cassis, ripe blackberry and a touch of pencil shavings.  Medium to high acid and a medium+ level of finely grained tannins.  Full body, concentrated fruit.  Long finish.  Tasted July 2009.

Chateau Jouclary Fut de Chene 2006
Cabardès, France
88 points
Imported in Japan by IIda Co.,Ltd
Medium garnet colour.  Spicy, warm blackberry and raspberry nose.  Very peppery with a whiff of star anise.  Medium to firm, chewy tannins, medium to high acid.  Good concentration of berry and spice flavours.  Medium+ body.  Long finish.  Tasted July 2009.

Cahors La Commandery 2006
Chateau la Caminade, Cahors, France
88 points
Imported in Japan by INFINI INCORPORATED
Deep garnet-purple.  Earthy, savoury nose with notes of marmite, warm plums, crushed blackberries and tree bark.  Medium to high acid and medium level of slightly astringent tannins.  Medium body, long finish.  Tasted July 2009.

Bourgogne Pinot Noir Cuvee X Reserve 2005
Liger-Belair, Burgundy, France
89 points
Imported in Japan by INFINI INCORPORATED
Pale ruby colour.  Very fragrant nose of warm strawberries, violets and cooked beets plus a touch of white pepper. Crisp acidity, low level of silky tannins.  Nice intensity.  Long finish.  Tasted July 2009.

Chorey-Les-Beaune 2006
Domaine Pierre Thibert, Burgundy, France
82 points
Imported in Japan by INFINI INCORPORATED
Pale ruby colour.  Savoury, wild yeast nose with some sour cherries and herbs.  Very tart acid and low level of astringent tannins.  Medium finish.  Tasted July 2009.

Fixin 2006
Domaine Fougeray de Beauclair, Burgundy, France
87 points
Imported in Japan by INFINI INCORPORATED
Very pale ruby colour.  Pleasant aromas of red cherry, raspberry and forest floor.  Medium to high acidity and a low to medium level of silky tannins.  Medium to long finish.  Tasted July 2009.

Savigny-Les-Beaune Rouge Les Bas Liards 2003
Domaine Regis Rossignol-Changarnier, Burgundy, France
84 points
Imported in Japan by INFINI INCORPORATED
Pale ruby colour.  Warm raspberry, loam and tar aromas.  Medium acid and medium+ level of astringent tannins.  Medium to long finish.  Tasted July 2009.

Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Rue De Chaux Vieille Vigne 2006
Domaine Pierre Thibert, Burgundy, France
90 points
Imported in Japan by INFINI INCORPORATED
Medium ruby-purple.  Good intensity of warm raspberry, violet and espresso aromas with a whiff of a savoury / gamey character.  Good concentration, high acidity and a medium level of finely grained tannins.  Long finish.  A little young.  Tasted July 2009.

Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes 2006
Domaine Dupont-Tisserandot, Burgundy, France
86 points
Imported in Japan by INFINI INCORPORATED
Pale ruby colour.  Meaty nose with some marmite and forest floor complimenting fruit notes of cherry and crushed raspberries.  Medium to high acidity and a low to medium level of fine tannins.  Medium to long finish.  Tasted July 2009.

Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru 2002
Domaine Jean-Paul Magnien, Burgundy, France
86 points
Imported in Japan by INFINI INCORPORATED
Pale ruby going a little brick.  Evolving red berry and game aromas with a touch of moss and tobacco leaf.  Medium to high acidity and medium+ level of silky tannins.  Moderate concentration.  Medium to long finish.  Tasted July 2009.

Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Cuvee du Pape Jean Paul II 2006
Domaine Christophe Bryczek
90 Points
Imported in Japan by INFINI INCORPORATED
Pale ruby colour.  Delicate Bing cherry and warm strawberry aromas with a hint of cinnamon. Medium to high acidity and a medium level of silky tannins.  Good concentration.  Long finish.  Tasted July 2009.

Terres D'erroy Merlot Vin de Pays L'Atlantique 2006
Prodiffu, Bordeaux, France
80 points
Imported in Japan by INFINI INCORPORATED
Pale garnet colour.  Vaguely plumy nose with a suggestion of white pepper.  Medium to high acid and a low to medium level of soft tannins.  Medium finish.  Tasted July 2009.

Chateau Barit 2005
AC Bordeaux Superieur
79 points
Imported in Japan by INFINI INCORPORATED
Medium garnet.  Neutral nose with a vague whiff of red berries and plums.  Medium+ acidity and a medium level of chewy tannins.  Short to medium finish.  Tasted July 2009.

La Roche Saint Angel Cuvee Prestige 2005
Les Peyrieres, Sainte-Foy-Bordeaux
82 points
Imported in Japan by INFINI INCORPORATED
Medium garnet colour.  Nose is lacking in intensity with notes of red fruits and a touch of cloves.  Medium to high acid and low to medium level of chewy tannins.  Medium finish.  Tasted July 2009.

Chateau Le Trebuchet 2006
Vignobles Bernard Berger, AC Bordeaux
86 points
Imported in Japan by INFINI INCORPORATED
Medium to deep garnet colour.  Warm plum, leather and spice aromas plus a hint of cedar.  Classic Bordeaux with a good intensity of elegant fruit, medium to high acidity and medium level of grainy tannins.  Medium to long finish.  Tasted July 2009.

Esprit de Preuillac 2006
Yvon Mau, AC Medoc, Bordeaux
87 points
Imported in Japan by RYOSHOKU LIQUOR CO. LTD.
Medium garnet colour.  Slightly mute nose with nose of plums and cassis plus a touch of cloves and coffee beans.  Medium to high acid and medium+ level of fine grained tannins.  Medium body.  Nice balance.  Medium to long finish.  Tasted July 2009.

Chateau de Carlmagnus 2006
Arnaud Roux-Oulie, Fronsac, Bordeaux
89 points
Imported in Japan by INFINI INCORPORATED
Deep garnet-purple.  The nose provides a good intensity of warm plums, mocha and spice plus a touch of game and marmite.  Medium to high acidity and a medium to firm level of velvety tannins.  Great concentration.  Long finish.  A little young still.  Tasted July 2009.

Chateau Saint Maurice Cuvee Vieilles Vignes 2006
AC Côtes du Rhône Villages Laudun
88 points
Imported in Japan by Valorjapan Co.,Ltd
Deep garnet colour.  Warm raspberry and cinnamon aromas with a touch of black pepper.  The full bodied palate provides a good concentration of spicy red berry flavours and enlivening medium+ acidity. Medium level of velvety tannins.  Long finish with a slight earthy / savoury character coming through at the end.  Tasted July 2009.

Vacqueyras 2007
Domaine de Boissan, Rhone, France
84 points
Imported in Japan by INFINI INCORPORATED
Deep garnet-purple.  Tomato leaf / vegetal character over warm strawberry and pepper fruit aromas.  Full body, medium acid and decent concentration of peppery fruit.   Medium level of slightly astringent tannins.  Medium to long finish, a little bitter.  Tasted July 2009.

Anjou Rouge L'Ardoisière 2007
Les Vignerons des Terroirs de la Noelle, Loire, France
85 points
Imported in Japan by GEKKEIKAN SAKE Co.,Ltd
Medium ruby-garnet.  Savoury, meaty / gamey nose with an undercurrent of ripe strawberries and tomato leaf.  Crisp acidity and that meaty earthiness peeking through the red berry fruit.  Medium level of chewy tannins.  Medium to long finish.  Tasted July 2009.