Grower Champagnes

If you’ve ever spent any time in France you may have noticed that there’s a big difference between the typical Champagne purchases there as opposed to the rest of the world.  France is by far Champagne’s largest market, with the locals santé-ing their way through roughly two thirds of the region’s total sales each year.  Yet contrary to other markets, sales in France are not overwhelmingly dominated by a handful of Grande Marques.  Around half of France’s Champagne purchases are the produce of small, individual growers (Grower Champagnes) and co-operatives as opposed to the rest of the world where 90% or more of markets have for a long time been comprised of big brand loyalty. 

This phenomenon begs the questions, have the French got some insider skinny on the best Grower Champagnes within their most famous sparkling wine region or are they less concerned with branding, buying mainly bargain fizz on price?  I suspect both of these factors play a part.  The vast majority of co-op and Grower Champagnes consumed in France is pretty ordinary stuff.  And of course a major factor behind France’s greater acceptance of these lesser known labels is plain, simple availability – most of these small grower and co-op Champagne labels are never exported. 

Yet as global demand for artisanal wines has grown, buyers around the world have become attuned to the fact that amongst the multitude of generally lacklustre Grower Champagne labels there are a number of truly talented undiscovered Champagne artists.  For example, until recently the house of Henri Giraud sold its Champagnes purely to wealthy private clientele within France until it was coaxed by foreign importers to sell some of its wines overseas.  Following the millennial boon and subsequent global increase in demand for Champagne (which is only now starting the recede), there’s been a relative exodus of these small to medium sized grower’s labels hitting export markets around the world. 

Coupled with the increased impetus to export (and in many cases spurned-on by it), there is also a rising trend for more of Champagne’s 15,000 or so independent growers to vinify, bottle and sell at least some of their production under their own label whereas they formerly sold all their grapes to co-operatives or large Champagne houses.  With around 5000 independent growers of varying winemaking skills currently producing Champagne from their own grapes, the results are predictably mixed.

I’ve noticed the buying habits of Champagne here in Asia are slowly, discernibly shifting.  Ok, this is not exactly a revolution - the Grande Marques still have a firm hold in most of the Far Eastern markets, particularly popular with hotel and retail groups reaping hefty marketing benefits.  However in few urban hot-spots, especially the more mature markets of Tokyo, Hong Kong and Singapore, the range of Grower Champagnes available has been steadily growing for the last few years.  More established names like Jacques Selosse, Egly-Ouriet, Vilmart and Henri Giraud are developing devoted cult followings.  Serious wine lovers and collectors here are being cajoled away from grazing on ubiquitous prestige cuvee aperitifs and seeking sweeter feed in less travelled fields.

Of course as demand increases for these cult Grower Champagnes, their prices swell.  Consequentially, distributors want to secure agencies for the next big little-guy.  But with more and more grower labels arriving, toting their elaborate spin and price tags to rival the Grandes Marques, it becomes increasingly difficult for Asian consumers to sort the wheat from the chaff.  And, as the French domestic Champagne market attests, there’s a lot of chaff out there.

The Grower Champagnes worth seeking out fall into one of two categories: 1) those that can offer Grande Marque quality at a fraction of the cost and 2) those that take Champagne style, quality, flavour profile and complexity beyond what the big players are offering.  The former category is a great find but the latter promises such remarkable experiences worthy of the relinquishment of eye-teeth and such. 

Emerging from this seen-it-all, done-it-all land of sparkle, an exemplary Grower Champagne almost necessitates a concerted departure from convention.  And we’re seeing it all nowadays: organics, biodynamics, wild yeasts, ultra-ripe grapes, tiny yields, new oak, single vineyard, no added sulphur, no dosage, no malo – you name it.  These are all potentially good but at the end of the day the proof will always be in the glass.  A lot of these highly lauded, well-meaning producers are just as capable of creating over-oaked, volatile, oxidised and/or over-blown monsters as anyone.  The rule is never let the spin fool you; trust your nose and palate.

Apart from the unconventional grape growing and winemaking methods, there are a few quality markers that generally set many of these exemplary Grower Champagnes apart from the rest of the herd:

• Vintage / batch variation is sought rather than minimised.
• Terroir influence is manifested since the grower’s vines are normally clustered around a single village.  (The large brands often source grapes from fifty or more vineyards throughout the Champagne region.) 
• Disgorgement dates are proudly adorned on the labels whereas they’re coded and stealthily hidden on most of the big brands.

For easy reference a Grower Champagne can be identified on the label displaying the letters RM (Récoltant-Manipulant) or sometimes with the words Proprietaire-Récoltant, meaning that the grapes were grown and the wines made by the same person/organisation.

During the last few months in Singapore I’ve had the very good fortune to have attended a number of Grower Champagne tastings, some organised by members of the trade and some by friends.  Particular thanks to Artisan Cellars, specialist distributors of rare artisanal Champagnes, for organising two really stellar tastings, one showcasing a range of little-known labels from the very exciting 2002 vintage.  Also thanks to Motoko Thomas and her company Kaigai Fine Wines (KFW), importers for Henri Giraud, for a great presentation of Henri Giraud’s wines.  Below I’ve included my tasting notes for the wines.

Tasting Notes

Michel Arnould Brut “La Grand Cuvee” Grand Cru NV
87 points
Delicate, floral, jasmine notes on the nose with a vague apple and pear element.  The palate is a little tight, austere, with green apple and crunchy pear flavours.  High acidity and a medium to long finish.  Tasted April 2009.

E. Barnaut Blanc de Noirs Brut Grand Cru
86 points
Slightly odd, wet dog, almost Chenin like nose with an undercurrent of pebbles and a meaty / sweaty character.  Crisp acidity and a moderate intensity of Granny Smith apple fruit.  Medium to long finish.  Tasted April 2009.

2002 Henri Billiot, Brut Millésime, Ambonnay, Grand Cru
91 points
75% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay
Very pretty floral, honeysuckle and wild strawberry nose plus a hint of praline.  Toasted almond and honeycomb nuances on the palate with very fine bubbles and a firm backbone of high acidity.  Lingering notes of strawberries and chalk in the long finish.  Tasted March 2009.

2002 Guy Charlemagne, Blanc de Blancs ‘Mesnillésime’ Brut, Mesnil-sur-Oger, Grand Cru
93 points
This wine really needs some coaxing to bring the aromas forward, revealing only subtle sniffs of buttered croissant, fresh limes and grapefruit plus a hint of wet pebbles.  The palate is very tightly knit but fine indeed, providing a great intensity of green apple and citrus fruit flavours complimented by fresh bread and lots of minerals.  Crisp acidity and very fine bubbles.  Long finish.  Needs a further 6-18 months in bottle but should develop into something truly special.  Tasted March 2009.

2002 Roger Coulon, Blanc de Noirs Brut Millésime, Vrigny, 1er Cru
89 points
50% old vine Pinot Meunier (60 years), 50% Pinot Noir
The aromas are a little muted, providing subtle notes of strawberries, hazlenuts and bruised apple.  This wine slightly has that earthy, funky, wild yeast ferment character leading to an oxidative style overall.  Delicately flavoured of stewed apples and nuts with crisp acidity.  Nicely balanced.  Long finish.  Tasted March 2009.

2002 José Dhondt, Blanc de Blancs ‘Mes Vielles Vignes’ Brut, Ogér, Grand Cru
91 points
The nose is a little closed providing delicate aromas of lemon tart, crumbled digestive biscuits, chalk dust and a touch of pepper.  The palate is tight but shows a good concentration of citrus and mineral flavours.  Very fine, frisky bubbles and a good backbone of high acidity.  Long zesty finish.  Tasted March 2009.

2004 Diebolt-Vallois Blanc de Blancs Brut Millésime
90 points
Very delicate honeysuckle, scones and clotted cream aromas on the nose.  The palate provides an elegant style with a crisp backbone of acid and a distinctively chalky character.  Nice balance of toast and ripe apple flavours.  Long finish.  Still a little tight, needs a few more months in bottle.  Tasted April 2009.

Egly-Ouriet Grand Cru Brut Blanc de Noirs V.V. NV
92 points
Disgorged July 2003
Appears like a very pale rose with a slight salmony colour.  Delicate, fresh strawberry aromas with a gentle waft of buttered scones.  Great concentration of juicy red berry flavours on the palate juxtaposed by crisp acidity.  Minerals developing on the mid-palate.  Long finish.  Tasted March 2009.

2002 Pierre Gimonnet, Blanc de Blancs ‘Fleuron’ Brut, Cuis, 1er Cru
91 points
Apple crumble, brioche and peach blossom aromas with wafts of freshly chopped ginger and white pepper.  The palate has plenty of yeast and toast plus a sensual creaminess.  Great backbone of refreshing acidity and a long, slightly chalky finish.  Tasted March 2009.

1996 Henri Giraud Fut de Chene
94 points
Medium straw-gold colour.  Lemon tart and pineapple aromas with a savoury, yeast and nut character plus a waft of cloves.  The palate is wonderfully minerally with a very crisp backbone of acid and lots of nervy richness waiting to be revealed.  Very long finish.  Still young and hinting that it has a lot more to show.  Tasted May 2009.

1998 Henri Giraud Fut de Chene
93 points
Medium+ straw-gold colour.  More florally scented with aromas of honeysuckle and buttered croissant with peach conserve.  Very crisp and tight on the palate.  Long, minerally finish.  Still very youthful and requiring a bit more down-time to open up.  Tasted May 2009.

1999 Henri Giraud Fut de Chene
91 points                                       
Medium to deep straw-gold colour.  A nutty / oxidative, hazelnut, toasted brioche nose with hints of cedar plus a lift of VA and fermented apple.  The palate is still a little tight providing crisp acidity and tense warm apple and nut flavours.  Long finish.  Tasted May 2009.

2000 Henri Giraud Fut de Chene
92 points
Note that this 2000 vintage is being released first in Japan, in summer 2009, and will be released to other markets in autumn 2009 or early 2010.  This is an effort to avoid parallel importing, which has been a problem for the Japanese market.
Medium straw-gold.  Ripe, almost uncharacteristically fruity nose with notes of golden delicious, warm grapefruit and nashi (Japanese apple pear).  The palate is forward, rich, with a touch of toasted honey-nut character coming through complimented by medium to high acidity.  Well balanced and approachable now.  Long chalky finish.  Tasted May 2009.

Benoit Lahaye Brut “Naturessence”
92 points
Appealing peach tart and cinnamon toast aromas on the nose.  Rich, concentrated, ripe stone fruit flavours on the palate with hints of spiced apple slices.  Crisp acidity.  Long minerally finish.  Tasted April 2009.

2002 Benoît Lahaye, Brut Millésime, Bouzy, Grand Cru
93 points
70% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay
Wonderfully toasty, yeasty, honey-nut aromas with supporting notes of nashi (Japanese apple pear), warm peaches and baked almond croissant.  That yeastiness follows through on the palate joined by golden delicious apple and a high level of refreshing acidity.  Very long minerally finish.  Tasted March 2009.

2002 J Lassalle, ‘Cuvée Angéline’ Brut, Chigny-les-Roses, 1er Cru
90 points
Cuvée Angéline” is Lassalle’s prestige cuvée, aged for 6 years and is typically composed of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay.
A relatively fruity, ripe apple and strawberry nose with nuances of shortbread biscuits and freshly baked bread.  There’s a good intensity of fresh red berry flavours on the palate balanced by crisp acidity and a pleasant creaminess.  Long, pure primary fruit finish.  Tasted March 2009.

2002 David Léclapart, ‘L’Apôtre’ Extra Brut, Trépail, 1er Cru
88 points
Biodynamically farmed, minimal sulphur additions, natural yeasts, no dosage, 100% Chardonnay.
This wine not only represents a departure from production convention but is also a bit of a flavour departure.  The nose is pretty wild and funky with an almost apple cider character to it and a touch of honey.  The palate is a little austere and seems overly tart, very dry, and without much autolytic character.  Nice intensity of citrus and savoury flavours.  An interesting wine but difficult to fathom how this one might develop.  Tasted March 2009.

David Léclapart Blanc de Blancs “L’Amateur” NV
91 points
Chalk dust, golden delicious, white pepper, ginger-biscuit and brioche aromas.  Crisp acidity.  Really peppery on the palate and in the finish.  Very dry.  Good intensity.  Long finish.  Tasted April 2009.

David Leclapart Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut NV
90 points
The grapes for this wine are from the 2004 vintage.
The nose is a little closed, the palate still tight.  Toasted almonds, apple and peach blossom aromas.  Crisp acidity in the mouth with green apple flavours and some chalky minerals.  Long, savoury, yeasty finish.  Needs a little time in bottle.  Tasted March 2009.

Sadi Malot Blanc de Blancs “Vieille Reserve” Brut 1er Cru NV
88 points
Youthful green apple nose.  Plenty of toast, cream a bit of peach blossom.  Quite creamy on the palate.  Crisp acidity.  Fine bubbles.  Long.  Tasted April 2009.

2002 Sadi Malot, Blanc de Blancs Brut Millésime, Villers-Marmery, 1er Cru
92 points
Citrusy, lemon-lime aromas on the nose with a touch of pie crust.  The palate is very fine, elegant, with a good intensity of citrusy fruit plus some white pepper and minerals.  Still quite tight.  Long finish.  Tasted March 2009.

2002 Pierre Moncuit, Blanc de Blancs ‘Cuvée Millesimée’ Brut, Mesnil-sur-Oger, Grand Cru
90 points
The nose here is more expressive than most young Blanc de Blancs, giving a good intensity of acacia honeyed pear, ripe apples and toasted brioche with a touch of cinnamon.  The palate is also relatively forward with pleasant, accessible flavours of apple tart and savoury yeast balanced by medium to high acidity.  Long finish.  Tasted March 2009.

Jacques Selosse Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru NV
92 points
Disgorged April 2005
Slightly wild, yeasty character with notes of golden delicious, butterscotch, ginger-nuts and quite a creamy, buttered brioche character.  Like the nose, the palate is complex and multilayered with lots of minerals and an alluring silkiness to the texture that coats the entire palate.  Rich.  Long finish.  Tasted March 2009.

2002 De Sousa, ‘Cuvée des Caudalies’ Brut Millésime, Avize/Aÿ, Grand Cru
92 points
50% Chardonnay, 50% Pinot Noir
Very fragrant, floral nose with aromas of peach blossom and jasmine perfuming the ripe apple and pear.  The palate is very youthful, tightly knit, but yields a wonderful concentration of toast and citrus flavours with a spicy kick of ginger.  The rich toastiness really comes through in the long finish.  Tasted March 2009.

2002 Zoémie de Sousa, ‘Cuvée Desirable’ Brut Millésime, Avize, Grand Cru
93 points
Complex nose – lime leaf, lemongrass and lightly toasted sweet bun aromas mingled with earthy, savoury notes of slate and white truffle.  The palate is elegantly styled with a great intensity of citrus fruits.  Seamless balance of crisp acidity and dosage.  Long savoury / chalky finish.  Tasted March 2009.

1998 Vilmart et Cie Cuvee Creation
95 points
Wow - really opulent nose with exotic spice and ginger notes supporting a core of decadently creamy, kaya jam, butterscotch, praline and marzipan aromas.  The palate is very rich, silky, full and viscous yet beautifully balanced by crisp acidity and seamless dosage.  Touch of creamy / spicy oak.  Very long, multilayered finish.
Tasted April 2009.