Champagne in Asia

Tasting Notes

Arlaux Brut Premier NV (92 points)
The nose of this wine seduces you straight away with a great balance of autolytic and fruit aromas:  toasted hazelnuts, warm apple tart and kaya (coconut and egg) jam.  The palate is equally well balanced providing plenty of evolved fruit and toasty / yeasty flavors.  Small, fine bubbles, seamless use of dosage and a long nutty finish.  This fine if relatively unknown Brut NV takes first place in the derby – a shocker even for me!  Tasted September 2008.

Bollinger Special Cuvee Brut NV (91 points)
This second-place was also a surprise since of the “Ultra Premium Price Champagnes”, I never buy Bolly.  I never thought I rated it.  But here it is, with this sit-up-and-beg nose of brioche, honeysuckle and marzipan plus a refreshing undercurrent of ripe apple.  Wonderful apple and pear cobbler flavors fill the mouth supported by a great backbone of crisp acidity and plenty of tiny, persistent bubbles.  The finish is long, dry, perfectly balanced leaving a nice lingering taste of toasted almonds.  Good.  Damn good. Tasted September 2008.    

Taittinger Brut Reserve NV (90 points)
I have to confess that I picked this wine out in the blind tasting…but then I do tend to drink it a lot.  Taittinger has this deliciously distinctive nose of apple crumble with a sprinkling of yuzu (lemon/lime) zest.  The bubbles on this mousse are so lively they’re like a tongue spa supporting the racy acidity.  However, the palate is just a little tighter and greener then perhaps it should be, shaving a few points from its final score.  Very long, citrussy finish with a few minerals.  Tasted September 2008. 

Perrier-Jouet Grand Brut NV (90 points)
Appealing notes of British scones, clotted cream and a whiff of strawberry jam on the nose.  The palate follows through with plenty of red berry and cream flavors, very fine long lasting bubbles and spot-on balance.  Long, nutty finish.  Tasted September 2008. 

Lanson Black Label Brut NV (90 points)
Pretty aromas of lemon tart, fresh strawberries and honeysuckle on the nose.  The ultra crisp acid tugs enticingly at the sides of the tongue nicely balanced by plenty of citrusy fruit flavor, a fair amount of toastiness and judicious use of dosage.  Very long finish.  Tasted September 2008. 

Mumm Cordon Rouge Brut NV (90 points)
The nose is slightly restrained and mute for the first few seconds but soon yields pretty scents of peach blossom, ripe apples and a faint hint of chalkboards.  A good concentration of apple and citrus fruit is provided by the palate complimented by a touch of buttered toast and refreshing acidity.  Great bubbles, long minerally finish.  Tasted September 2008.    

Pol Roger Reserve Brut NV (89 points)
Great nose.  There’s a real nuttiness supplemented by mouthwatering aromas of apple sauce, butterscotch, ginger and mooncakes.  The palate is a bit of a let-down after this teaser of a nose, but only in that the concentration of flavors doesn’t quite match the intensity of smells.  It’s still a very good, balanced wine with medium to high acid and the slightest hint of caramel and chalk in the medium to long finish.  Tasted September 2008.

Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label Brut NV (89 points)
I was also able to spot this wine in the blind line-up.  The first thing that always hits me with this Champagne is freshly steamed Chinese bread aromas followed by stewed apples and a whiff of praline.  The nose is slightly more austere then normal and the palate is looking a little tight.  While this bottling is a tad crisp and youthful upon this tasting, there are some very fine apple pastry flavors to be had.  Long finish.  Tasted September 2008.

Deutz Brut Classic NV (89 points)
This Champagne has a beautifully scented nose of red berries, jasmine and brioche.  The palate is crisp and clean with a good intensity of juicy strawberry fruit and nuances of roasted hazelnut.  Long, yeasty finish.  Tasted September 2008.

Billecart-Salmon Brut Blanc de Blancs NV (89 points)
A fairly intense and complex nose of poached pears, lemon curd, orange blossom and pineapple bun.  In the mouth this wine is a little tightly knit with a high level of nervy acidity dominating the palate though the underlying concentration of citrus and toast flavors herald its potential.  Long, layered citrus and cream finish.  Tasted September 2008.

Laurent-Perrier Brut NV (88 points)
The nose is delicately scented with Granny Smith apple and lemon cake aromas plus a touch of shaved almonds and a somewhat earthy / nori (seaweed) character.  The palate is crisp and lively with a fine mousse and decent concentration of citrus flavors.  Medium to long finish.  Tasted September 2008. 

Gosset Brut Excellence NV (88 point)
A good intensity of brioche, honeysuckle and hazelnut aromas overlie ripe Fuji apple fruit.  The palate is well balanced providing ample toastiness and mouthwatering freshness.  Medium to long persistence with lingering apple tart flavors.  Tasted September 2008. 

Piper-Heidsieck Brut NV (88 points)
Strawberry shortcake and cream nose with a touch of amoretti biscuit.  The palate is solid, textbook Champagne with a fine mousse, fair amount of brioche and berries and a crisp backbone.  What it lacks in concentration and complexity it makes up for in balance and purity of flavours.  Medium to long finish.  Tasted September 2008.   

Moet & Chandon Brut Imperial NV (88 points)
Scents of fresh apple, strawberry and jasmine perfume the nose.  Toasted brioche and apple plus barely perceptible dosage nicely balance the crisp acidity.  Fine persistent bubbles.  Medium to long finish.  Tasted September 2008.

Louis Roederer Brut Premier NV (87 points)
The nose is a little reduced to begin, rubbery and closed.  Some faint citrus and pear aromas plus a whiff of marzipan.   The palate is very crisp, tight and youthful with some green apple fruit peaking through and the faintest hint of toast.  Medium to long finish.  Shame, I’m sure this wine will be excellent after 12-18 months in the cellar but at the moment though it has obvious finesse, it is not showing its absolute best.  Tasted September 2008.

Delamotte Brut Blanc de Blancs NV (87 points)
Lemon curd scented nose with subtle notes of peach blossom and white pepper.  The palate has a good concentration of apple pie flavors enlivened with medium to high acidity.  Well balanced, nice mousse, medium+ finish.  Tasted September 2008.

Cattier Brut 1er Cru NV (87 points)
Another wine with a mute nose, providing austere strawberry and green apple aromas.  The palate has some very fine, frisky bubbles - though the acid is a little tart for the unresolved fruit and autolysis flavors.  This wine is straining to blossom but is just a babe and needs time to develop.  Long, green apple finish.  Tasted September 2008.

De Canteneur Brut NV (87 points)
The deeper color and evolved nose suggest to me that this sample has probably had a bit more time in bottle then many of the other Champagnes.  Honey-on-toast, buttered oatmeal and roasted nuts contribute to a very appealing nose.  The mouth is also pleasantly evolved if slightly lacking in concentration and mid-palate.  Crisp acidity.  The bubbles are fine though not as persistent as some of the other Champagnes.  Medium+ finish.  Tasted September 2008.

Laurent-Perrier Ultra Brut NV (86 points)
No Dosage
A whiff of rubber and tar reduction character on the nose gives way to apples, pears and fresh strawberries.  The palate has very high acidity, seems tight and nervy.  While this wine has decent primary fruit intensity there’s very little autolytic character showing through.   Medium to long finish leaving a touch of bitterness.  Good but not great.  Tasted September 2008.  

Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Reserve Particuliere NV (86 points)
Subtle nose of orange blossom, citrus fruits and a touch of red berry.  The palate provides a good balance of moderately concentrated fruit, crisp acid and judiciously applied dosage.  Fine bubbles.  Medium+ finish.  Tasted September 2008.

Gardet Guy de Saint Flavy Brut NV (86 points)
Medium intense aromas of fresh apple slices, yuzu (lemon/grapefruit) and Chinese steamed bread.  Good mousse, nice backbone of high acidity and a decent amount of apple biscuit flavors on the palate.  Medium+ finish.  Tasted September 2008.

Pierre Gimonnet Brut Cuis 1er Cru NV (86 points)
Bruised apple and vaguely citrus notes on the nose with a faint waft of brioche.  The palate has a nice backbone of refreshing acidity and good bubbles but it is lacking slightly in concentration.  Medium+ finish.  Tasted September 2008.

Pol Roger Pure Brut Nature NV (85 points)
No Dosage
The nose is a little closed revealing just a few delicate aromas of strawberries, lemon and cream.  The palate is showing a suggestion of brioche but in general there’s not much lees influence apparent on this wine and the mid-palate is not well supported.  The crisp acidity lingers in the medium+ lemony finish.  Tasted September 2008.
 

Henriot Brut Souverain NV (84 points)
Rather oxidative nose with notes of bruised apple, hazelnut and digestive biscuits.  The palate lacks real flavor concentration, providing medium to high acidity with medium sized bubbles of moderate persistence.  Medium+ finish.  A medium good Champagne. Tasted September 2008.

Lamiable Brut Grand Cru NV (83 points)
Seriously interesting nose with pretty floral / jasmine and honey aromas plus some butterscotch and amoretti biscuit.  The palate doesn’t quite deliver however, with somewhat dulled, moderately concentrated apple and toast flavors supported by medium to high acidity.  Fine, persistent bubbles and a medium finish.  Tasted September 2008.

J. Lassalle “Cuvee Preference” Brut NV (82 points)
The nose here is slightly oxidized with a touch of VA, though there are also interesting applesauce, caramel and ginger aromas.  The palate is beginning to split at the seams with jutting, tart acid and tiring dried apple and cashew flavors.  Medium finish.  Still drinkable and good but not at its best I suspect.  Tasted September 2008.  (NB, I asked my helpers to get me another bottle of this wine but it was the same.)