Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico at the 2009 World Gourmet Summit

Singapore’s 2009 World Gourmet Summit (WGS) went out on a bit of limb this year with its wine events.  True, there were still a few safe bets featuring winemakers that were sure to pull in the crowds including Michael Sillaci of Opus One and Didier Cuvelier of Chateau Leoville-Poyferre.  But there were also a number very brave wine affairs introducing wines that are not so blindly worshipped, such as those of Priorat, Parker Coonawarra, Yering Station and Robert Weil.  But perhaps WGS’s most precarious position on its nonconformist cordon this vintage was to feature two full days of events focused around one of the world’s most historic and finest quality wine consortiums representing a region that is often snubbed here in Singapore: Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico.

Founded in 1924 by just 33 growers, today’s Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico is one of the world’s best established producer consortiums.  There are currently 566 members farming 7200 hectares of vines devoted to Chianti Classico wines giving a total annual production of around 260,000 hl.  (A further 2000 hectares of land within this region is committed to making IGT wines, many referred to as “Super Tuscans”.) 

In Asia, Japan is a significant market for Chianti Classico; it’s the sixth largest export market accounting for 6% of the region’s total sales.  But while demand is growing in Singapore, the Consorzio has a long, long way to go here to catch up with the popularity of Bordeaux and its New World reared counterparts or even that of Chianti Classico’s precocious younger siblings – the Super Tuscan cult labels. 

The Consorzio’s events and hosts were adeptly organised by WGS’ well-connected wine consultant, Dr NK Yong.  Four visiting guests were brought over especially for the occasion: Giovanni Manetti of Fontodi, Paolo de Marchi of Isole e Olena, Marco Pallanti of Castello di Ama and independent consultant and wine critic, Daniel Thomases.

The WGS events kicked off on Sunday, 26th April with a Wine Fair at The Saint Regis Hotel featuring more than twenty different stands each showcasing a different winery, including top names like Ruffino, Castello di Ama, Fonterutoli and Felsina.  Manning their stands were Giovanni Manetti of Fontodi and Paolo de Marchi of Isole e Olena, offering attendees the rare opportunity to meet these great winemakers and have their questions answered.  Nearly all the wines shown were available to purchase on the day via local distributors making this both a fun and practical opportunity for locally based winos.

The Wine Fair was directly followed by a Chianti Classico Symposium chaired by Giovanni Manetti (Fontodi), Marco Pallanti (Castello di Ama), Paolo di Marchi (Isole e Olena), Daniel Thomases and moderated by Dr NK Yong.  Attended by around 80 guests, this educational tasting and tutorial provided a chance to learn about the region in-depth, touching on key quality issues such as the percentage of Sangiovese used in blends, altitude of vineyards and soil types.  Twelve superlative Chianti Classico wines from the excellent 2004 vintage were shown to illustrate the points raised.  

The next day WGS hosted a press lunch at the St. Regis’ Yan Ting restaurant, giving us journalists a few more wines to taste and an opportunity to present questions to the visiting guests.  I threw out a broad, open-ended question about the relative differences and quality levels of recent vintages in Chianti Classico.  Daniel Thomases began the discussion by giving a run-down of his take on vintages since 2000:

2001 – Cool, late in the season but generally very good.
2002 – Rains at harvest, terrible.
2003 – Difficult because of the heat.
2004 – Very usual and traditional year.  Long growing season, excellent quality and good maturity.
2005 – “Interesting” vintage.  Some rain.
2006 – Beautiful year.
2007 – Good but more selective vintage.
2008 – Good year but a bit of rain leading to difficult ripening.

“But”, Thomases stipulated at the end, “Chianti Classico is a large region with a lot of variation.”

Paolo di Marchi interjected here, “2008 was a good vintage.”

Giovanni Manetti agreed, “The main problem was the small crop.”

I then asked about favourite vintages of the 1990s, sparking Manetti to announce, “Everyone is always saying that 1997 was the vintage of the century but for me 1999 was better.  The wines show greater typicity.”

“1993 is a very under-rated vintage,” added di Marchi.  “1993 is one of those vintages that showed itself after a few years in bottle.”

“I have a sneaky love for 1995 wines from Chianti Classico and Montalcino,” Thomases confided.  “One of the coolest vintages of the 1990s, saved in September / October.  Nice long, slow ripening.”

That afternoon WGS hosted a Castello di Ama Masterclass showcasing eight samplings, including some rare older vintages of this top producer’s wines. The estate’s director and winemaker, Marco Pallanti, gave fascinating insight into the estate’s terroir and techniques.  Also moderating were Daniel Thomases and Dr NK Yong injecting their perspectives and considerable experience into the proceedings.

The grand finale of the two days was a gala dinner pairing a selection of Chianti Classico wines with the cuisine of iconic three Michelin starred Chef Heinz Beck, flown from his restaurant La Pergola in Italy for WGS.  Seven wonderfully inventive though intrinsically Mediterranean courses were paired with nine wines including four incredible IGTs:  2005 Flaccianello della Pieve, Fontodi; 2005 Castello di Brolio Casaferro; 2005 Siepi, Castello di Fonterutoli and 2001 L’Apparita, Castello di Ama.

All tolled, apart from furthering my own passion for the undervalued wines of Chianti Classico, the events gave me the opportunity to taste more than fifty stellar wines from this multifaceted region, with the tasting notes posted below.  IGT wines are listed separately at the very end. 

Note that since I wrote an article earlier this year featuring a comprehensive tasting of Fontodi’s recent vintages and my notes haven’t changed much, I haven’t included these here.

Chianti Classico Tasting Notes

Agricoltori del Chianti Geografico Riserva Montegiachi 2004
87 points
Dusty, white pepper and blackberry fruit aromas on the nose.  Medium concentration.  Medium to high acid and a low to medium level of chewy tannins.  Medium body.  Medium to long finish.  Drink now to 2013.  Tasted April 2009.

Barone Ricasoli Chianti Classico Castello di Brolio 2004
93 points
Deep garnet-purple colour.  Intense, pure dark cherry and cedar aromas with a touch of dried herbs.  Medium+ level of very finely grained tannins supporting the layers of juicy blackberry and cherry fruit.  Crisp acidity to balance.  Long finish.  Still very young.  Drink now to 2020.  Tasted April 2009.

Barone Ricasoli Chianti Classico Castello di Brolio 2001
92 points
Earthy, meaty, gamey nose with a core of kirsch and dried plum.  Crisp acidity.  Medium+ level of fine tannins.  Plenty of evolved, earthy fruit.  Mature, but no hurry to drink.  Long finish.  Drink now to 2015.  Tasted April 2009.

Barone Ricasoli Chianti Classico Riserva Rocca Guicciarda 2005
88 points
A little reduced, meaty, warm cherry, leather.  Medium+ tannins, a little bitter.  Medium+ acidity.  Good concentration.  Long finish.  Drink now to 2015.  Tasted April 2009.

Castellare di Castellina Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggiale 2004
90 points
Medium garnet colour.  Good intensity of dark berry and earth aromas mingled with mocha, moss and a whiff of VA.  Medium to firm, slightly astringent tannins and medium+ acidity support a good concentration of fruit.  Still youthful.  Long finish.  Drink now to 2018.  Tasted April 2009.

Castello di Ama Chianti Classico 2006
89 points
Medium ruby-garnet.  Pure, dark cherry, cedar and moss aromas.  On the medium+ bodied palate - crisp acidity and a medium+ level of finely grained though slightly astringent tannins.  Long and fruity finish.  Drink now to 2015.  Tasted April 2009. 

Castello di Ama Chianti Classico 2005
90 points
Purely fruited, delicate aromas of ripe cherries with wafts of black olive and forest floor.  Medium+ level of very finely grained tannins and medium to high acidity.  Good concentration, very refined.  Long finish.  Drink now to 2014.  Tasted April 2009.

Castello di Ama Chianti Classico 2003
90 points
In 2003 no mono-crus were produced, they were all declassified into this wine.
Medium garnet colour.  Warm cherry compote, cumin, leather and tobacco.  Medium to full body with a medium level of fine tannins and medium to high acidity.  Long finish.  Drink now to 2012.  Tasted April 2009.

Castello di Ama Chianti Classico 1997
92 points
Medium garnet-brick colour.  Earthy, gamey, smoked meat aromas on the nose with complimentary notes of dried plums, cumin and leather.  Medium+ level of fine tannins and a refreshing backbone of high acidity lend youthful vitality to the complex, evolved fruit flavours.  Long finish.  Mature, drink now.  Tasted April 2009.

Castello di Ama Chianti Classico Vigneto La Casuccia 2004
90 points
Medium garnet colour.  Warm plum, blackberries, tobacco and Mediterranean herbs with a whiff of tar and charred meat on the nose.  Elegantly styled palate with a medium level of fine tannins and medium to high acidity.  Long finish.  Drink now to 2018.  Tasted April 2009.

Castello di Ama Chianti Classico Vigneto La Casuccia 1995
88 points
Pale to medium brick colour.  The nose is drying-out a little, giving dried fruit aromas of raisins, prunes and leather with a sprinkling of spices.  The palate shows fruit that is a little more vibrant with a medium+ level of tannins and crisp acidity.  Long finish.  Very pleasant but needs drinking-up.  Drink now.  Tasted April 2009.

Castello di Ama Chianti Classico Vigneto Bellavista 2004
93 points
Medium to deep garnet colour. Very pretty nose giving aromas of cardamom, raspberry tart, violets and cloves.  Medium+ level of very fine tannins and medium+ acidity.  Great balance.  Elegant style.  Long finish.  Drink now to 2020.  Tasted April 2009.

Castello di Ama Chianti Classico Vigneto Bellavista 2001
94 points
Medium+ garnet colour.  Complex, earthy, ripe cherry, meat, forest floor, truffles, stewed tea and pencil shavings aromas.  The medium+ bodied palate provides a mouthful of sustained, savoury flavours with a medium+ level of fine tannins and medium to high acidity to support.  Very long finish.  Drink now to 2017.  Tasted April 2009.

Castello di Ama Chianti Classico Vigneto Bellavista 1988
94 points
Medium brick colour, a little cloudy.  Very appealing, complex nose, quite spicy.  Notes of stewed cherries, espresso, Chinese five spice and game.  The palate provides layer upon layer of warm berry and spice flavours, well supported by crisp acidity and a medium level of very fine tannins.  Very long, spicy finish.  Still has another 3-4 years of life.  Drink now to 2012+.  Tasted April 2009.

Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 2006
91 points
Moderate intensity of fruit and forest aromas - dark cherry, cassis, mushrooms, moss.  The palate provides great structure with a medium+ level of fine tannins and nice backbone of racy acidity.  Long finish.  Tasted Drink now to 2015.  April 2009.

Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 2005
90 point
Medium to deep garnet colour.  Ripe raspberry and dark cherry primary fruit aromas are complimented by pleasant smoked bacon and hung game characters.  Medium to full body and a medium+ level of fine tannins.  Crisp acidity gives a fresh lift.  Long finish.  Drink now to 2014.  Tasted April 2009.

Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 2004
91 points
Deep garnet colour.  Tantalising fruit and earth aromas of cherry compote, spearmint, black truffles and dried plum.  Medium+ level of grippy tannins matched by medium to high acidity and layers of fruit, mushroom and herb flavours that grow in the mid-palate.  Long finish with some minerality.  Drink now to 2015.  Tasted April 2009.

Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico 2003
89 points
Warm blackberry and cherry compote with underlying notes of Chinese five-spice and black pepper.  Touch of VA.  Concentrated black fruit flavours on the palate with a medium to high level of finely grained tannins and medium to high acidity.  Long finish.  Drink now to 2012.  Tasted April 2009.

Castello di Lucignano Chianti Classico 2005
86 points
Faint nose, vague red berry and earthy character.  Light bite of tannins, moderate concentration of fruit, medium to high acid.  Medium to long finish.  Drink now to 2012.  Tasted April 2009.

Castello di Montsanto Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio 2004
89 points
Medium garnet colour.  Slightly mute nose - truffles, moss, loam and macerated blackberries.  Very tightly knit palate with a high level of acidity and a medium+ level of slightly astringent tannins.  Long finish.  Drink now to 2015.  Tasted April 2009.

Castello di Querceto Chianti Classico 2006
91 points
Spicy, earthy, smoky aromas.  Lots of flavour on the palate, cherries, minerals, game.  Crisp acid.  Medium+ body.  Medium level of fine tannins.  Long finish.  Drink now to 2014.  Tasted April 2009.

Castello di Querceto Chianti Classico Riserva 2004
91 points
Deep garnet-purple colour.  Dark berry, smoked game, cigar box and tobacco leaf nose.  Medium+ level of fine tannins.  Very crisp.  Well structured.  Good fruit follow through on the palate.  Youthful.  Long mineral and earth finish.  Drink now to 2018.  Tasted April 2009.

Castello di Volpaia Chianti Classico 2006
89 points
On the nose - warm blackberry, prunes, spice and cinnamon.  The palate is balanced, moderately concentrated, with medium+ acidity and a medium+ level of velvety tannins.  Long finish.  Drink now to 2014.  Tasted April 2009.

Castello di Volpaia Chianti Classico Riserva Coltassala 2004
92 points
Medium garnet colour.  Fragrant dark cherry, warm raspberry, violet and mint aromas on the nose.  The medium+ bodied palate provides plenty of juicy fruit, crisp acidity and a medium+ level of fine grained tannins to support.  A bit of oak is still apparent but the wine is still young and it should marry.  Long finish.  Drink now to 2020.  Tasted April 2009.

Fattoria San Giusto a Rentennano Chianti Classico Riserva Le Baroncole 2004
91 points
Pale to medium garnet colour.  Intense aromas of warm raspberry, lifted cherry and violets.  Some oak is still jutting out of the palate balanced by plenty of fleshy red berry fruit.  Medium+ level of very fine tannins and crisp acidity.  Long finish.  Drink now to 2019.  Tasted April 2009.

Felsina Chianti Classico Berardenga 2006
88 points
Earthy, warm cherry fruit aromas plus whiffs of cooked beetroot and fallen leaves.  Elegant, medium bodied style with crisp acidity and soft tannins.  Long finish.  Drink now to 2013.  Tasted April 2009.

Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva 2005
91 points
Very ripe warm cherry and raspberry fruit aromas plus black olives and forest floor.  Good concentration on the palate, loads of earthy dark berry fruit.  Medium+ fine tannins, high acidity and a long finish.  Drink now to 2016.  Tasted April 2009.

Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia 2004
94 points
Very deep garnet-purple colour.  Intense nose of blackberries, blueberries, cardamom, mint, Mediterranean herbs and violets.  Medium+ grainy tannins, medium to high acidity support the richness of fruit on the palate.  Long finish.  Drink now to 2020.  Tasted April 2009.

Il Molino di Grace Chianti Classico 2004
87 points
Cherry, pepper and forest floor aromas.  Crisp acidity and a medium level of rather rustic tannins on the palate.  Medium to long finish.  Drink now to 2013.  Tasted April 2009.

Il Molino di Grace Chianti Classico Riserva 2003
90 points
Warm cherry, loam, moss, dried herbs and leather aromas.  Nice backbone of high acidity with good concentration of earthy fruit to balance and a medium level of silky tannins.  Long finish.  Drink now to 2012.  Tasted April 2009.

Isole e Olena Chianti Classico 2005
89 points
Dusty, subdued nose, some cherries and VA.  Elegant palate, crisp acidity, medium level of fine tannins.  Nicely balanced.  Long finish.  Drink now to 2012.  Tasted April 2009.

Isole e Olena Chianti Classico 2004
90 points
Pale to medium ruby-garnet colour.  Sour cherry and dried herb aromas.  Softly structured with medium to high acidity and a low to medium level of silky tannins.  Good balance of red berry flavours with a touch of earthiness in the long finish.  Drink now to 2016.  Tasted April 2009.

Le Fonti Chianti Classico 2005
88 points
Earthy aromas of loam and forest floor with background notes of dark cherry, dark chocolate and cloves.  Crisp acidity and a medium level of silky tannins.  Medium to long finish.  Drink now to 2012.  Tasted April 2009.

Le Fonti Chianti Classico Riserva 2004
93 points 
Fragrant nose of Mediterranean herbs and cardamom plus blackberries, dried plums, earth and leather.  The palate is intensely fruited with a medium+ level of very finely grained tannins and crisp, zesty acidity.  Long finish with lingering notes of mint and spices.  Drink now to 2018.  Tasted April 2009.

Poggio al Sole Chianti Classico Riserva Casasilia 2004
90 points
Medium to deep garnet colour.  Earthy nose with notes of tar, forest floor, leather, stewed tea and dried plums over an undercurrent of kirsch.  Crisp acidity and a medium level of very finely grained tannins.  Nicely structured.  Long, really earthy finish.  Drink now to 2017.  Tasted April 2009.

Ruffino Santedame Chianti Classico 2006
89 points
Very ripe notes of plums and macerated blackberries on the nose.  Faint notes of VA and lifted spiciness.  Medium to high acidity and a medium+ level of slightly astringent tannins.  Good concentration.  Long finish.  Drink now to 2013.  Tasted April 2009.

Ruffino Riserva Ducale Oro 2005
92 points
The nose is a little closed to begin but with coaxing mute black cherry, pepper and tobacco aromas begin to emerge.  The palate is tightly knit with medium to firm, fine tannins and a high level of acidity.  Great concentration building in the mouth.  Long finish.  Drink now to 2014.  Tasted April 2009.

Terrabianca Scassino Chianti Classico 2006
90 points
Intense, lifted blackberry and cassis nose plus a whiff of hung meat.  Tons of pure fruit on the palate, silky tannins and crisp acidity.  Long finish.  A rather modern style.  Tasted Drink now to 2013.  April 2009.

Terrabianca Chianti Classico Riserva Croce 2004
91 points
Intense warm cherry and clove aromas on the nose with a touch of smoked bacon and game.  Medium+ level of fine tannins, medium+ acidity.  Long finish with a pleasant minerality.  Drink now to 2017.  Tasted April 2009.

Vignamaggio Chianti Classico 2005
87 points
White pepper and warm strawberry aromas on the nose with a hint of leather.  Light bite of silky tannins and medium+ acidity.  Medium to long finish.  Drink now to 2012.  Tasted April 2009.

IGT Tasting Notes

Castello di Ama L’Apparita 2003
92 points
100% Merlot
Medium to deep garnet colour.  Warm, slightly stewed plum and blackberry aromas seasoned with notes of cinnamon, dried herbs, black olives and musk.  Plenty of fleshy fruit on the medium to full bodied palate with medium+ acidity and a medium+ level of velvety tannins to support.  Long finish.  Drink now to 2020.  Tasted April 2009.

Castello di Ama L’Apparita 2001
93 points
100% Merlot
Very deep garnet-black colour.  Warm prunes, cumin, game, tobacco leaf and a waft of mushrooms on the nose.  The palate is rich, concentrated and very well balanced with a medium+ level of silky tannins and medium+ acidity.  Very long finish.  Drink now to 2020.  Tasted April 2009.

Castello di Ama L’Apparita 1998
95 points
100% Merlot
Deep garnet colour.  Intensely fragrant nose, dried plums, cardamom, dried flowers and white pepper with a touch of sweaty saddles.  Full body.  Firm, smoothly textured tannins providing a bit of grip amongst the opulent fruit.  Medium+ acidity and long finish.  Still another ten years or so of life left here.  Drink now to 2019.  Tasted April 2009.

Castello di Brolio Casalferro 2005
93 points
Deep garnet-black colour.  The nose is a little reduced to begin with notes of warm plums, macerated blackberries, tar, smoked bacon and black olives.  The palate is full, rich, giving tons of primary fruit with some savoury and mineral nuances.  Medium to high level of fine tannins and a high level of acidity.  Long finish.  Drink now to 2017.  Tasted April 2009.

Castello di Fonterutoli Siepi 2005
91 points
Very deep garnet-purple colour.  Expressive aromas of black cherries, cedar, cloves and mocha with a touch of hung meat.  Crisp acidity and a medium to firm level of firm, ripe tannins.  Very good concentration of flavours well balanced by the structure.  Long earthy finish.  Drink now to 2016.  Tasted April 2009.